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Of all the dog agility equipment the see-saw is probably the most difficult to make.  I've had a go and it really is hard to get it right.  I didn't go for a garden sized see-saw as this is one area where I think it's important to train on the full sized equipment.

I know most people are happy to train on the equipment at their classes and this is fine if your dog is working well. 

The reason I wanted a see-saw was because Sasha had a big problem with it.  Of course Sasha tried to talk me out of making the see-saw. 
"You really don't have to bother on my account.  I'm quite happy with jumping."   
"Look missus," I said, "I'll make a see-saw and we'll give it good shot at home.  I promise you'll love it and I'll never let you feel scared."
I bought the wood from the local DIY shop and there I had my first shock.  The DIY SHOP IS CLOSING DOWN! It was my second home and it was going.   Aaagh!  What am I going to do?  Anyway, the men were very helpful and they cut the plywood for the top of the see-saw into three bits measuring four feet by 12 inches. (The Kennel Club still worked in feet and inches.) The best bit was when the girl in the DIY shop asked what I was making. 
"A see-saw for the dog."
The poor girl's jaw dropped and she gave sideways glance to make sure that help was at hand in case I turned peculiar.
"Um....are you going in for a talent contest?" she asked tentatively. 
"No, I said.  "The dog does agility and they have to jump over things and go over a see-saw."
"I see," she said and hurriedly gave me the bill.

I also took home a substantial amount of bits of wood that I thought I could join together to make a see-saw. I was wrong. Here's the first tip. The see-saw has to be rock solid and this means that you can't get away with flimsy timber. You need the good chunky stuff. In the end I used 4 x 2 (100mm x 50mm) Planed all round timber for the base. The picture on the right shows the final design for the base. The two uprights are 24" high and the long pieces used at the bottom of the base are 40" long. This is big enough to make the see-saw stable.

 I did originally use smaller timber for the long base pieces and made them only 30" long but it wasn't stable enough and it wobbled. This is no good for a scaredy dog. Eventually we finished the base and I made the plank for the see-saw. It was hopeless. The wood for the framing was far too small and it wobbled. In fact it not only wobbled, it bounced. I worried about it. Sasha was going to be even more scared if I trained her on that thing but I'd already spent a fair amount on timber. I couldn't go back for more or Bernie would have a fit. Then fate stepped in.

Our thing that we call a loggia that isn't really a loggia but stops a rambling rose from cuddling us on the way to the dustbin, collapsed and died of old age. The loggia thing also supported the gate to the dustbin area. It had to be replaced but this would mean ordering a fair amount of substantial timber and it would need to be delivered. Bingo! Two small bits of timber 4.2 metres long would go unnoticed.

I went along to the new DIY/building things place to try them out and lo and behold they turned out to be the parent company of the DIY shop.  Everything would eventually be moved there lock stock and barrel including the staff.  This was a huge relief.  The staff they already had in the new shop weren't half so much fun.

"What do you need the wood for?"  asked the man in the timber yard when I questioned it's strength. 

"A see-saw for the dog," I said.

"Oh in that case it needs to be built to specific dimensions.  You do know it has to be the right width?"  

The wood was delivered the next day.  Dead straight, planed square edge (I'd ordered planed all round).  The two pieces were 75mm x 50mm and chunky enough to build a strong frame to take the plywood.  It was quite easy to make a simple frame.  I used the trestles for the garden dog walk to balance the wood while I cut it to length (12 feet)  and I cut some smaller bits from the excess to make up the frame. 

Finally the thing had to be put together.  I made some holes in the uprights and the sides of the plank with an ancient brace and bit so that I could thread a rod right through.   The rod I used was 12mm threaded.  I've also used a couple of nuts on either side of the upright.
I'm not convinced this is the best way to make a fulcrum.  Most of the plans I've seen use some form of rod or pole in this way but it is quite difficult to put the thing together.   For the time being this is suitable. 








 One thing that caused a problem was weighting.  The first see-saw was heavily weighted so that it didn't tip too quickly, however, it did fall back with quite a crash.  When I went in the agility ring I tipped the club see-saw and was surprised to find how light it felt.  It tipped very quickly.  I spoke to one or two people about it and they thought the see-saws they used in training were heavier, however, they pointed out that some dogs were scared by the sudden bang as the see-saw fell back. 

They suggested that I make the see-saw lighter as it would be less noisy.  In the end I opted for making the framing such that one end was heavy enough to fall back but not so heavy that it would go back with a crash.   

The other thing that needs consideration is fixing the base.  You can add angle brackets and peg it down with very big tent heavy duty pegs.  I've made our base so that I can sandbag it.  This is an easy way to secure the  base and I can use my tent pegs back for the tunnel.

All that remains now is for me to paint the rest of the thing and there isn't half a lot of it to paint!

After all the DIY it was time to get Sasha.

"I'm not going on that!"

"Why not?"

"You made it."

"Flipping cheek.  It's really safe.  You can stay on the lead."

"I don't want to do it."

And so we spent a happy time going over some jumps.  Eventually I persuaded Sasha to sit fairly close to the see-saw while I tipped it and let it fall back.  Finally she was brave enough to approach the thing on her own and eat some food from the contact area.  It's a start.  I'm not sure that leading her onto the see-saw at this stage will serve any useful purpose.  She has to get used to the noise of it crashing down and falling back. 

At the time of writing I have only just made the see-saw.  Getting a dog over a major fear such as going on a see-saw is really a subject for another article.  The best thing is to keep a diary so that you can check on progress.  I did this once when taming a wild horse that everyone said couldn't be caught.  Oh yes, she could.  With any animal you just need masses of patience.  The diary kept me going and showed what progress I'd made.

If the thought of building a see-saw is too daunting you can buy the garden sized equipment quite easily from somewhere like ebay.  If you want competition standard equipment you'll need to go to someone like Premier or Adams but they are expensive.

Update: 14th July 2011.  Several people have suggested that I train Sasha on a wobble board.  They are quite easy to make and I can't wait to go down to the DIY shop before it closes for good.  If the girl doesn't see me coming and run away (it has happened in builders merchants) I foresee such an interesting this space.

Update 24th July 2011. We made a wobble board and we've had a lot of fun with it.  I made it very cheaply and just about anyone could do this.  Have a look at our effort.

Update 25th March 2015.  I did teach Sasha to go on the see-saw and to become less afraid of it but I stopped asking her to do the agility classes at shows.  She's gets over excited and as she suffers from border collie collapse there is a danger that she may become wobbly and fall off the agility contact equipment.  She has happily competed in jumping classes and steeplechases.

  'Jilly can do the flipping contacts,' she said.  'She must be bonkers but if she likes it then it's not going to waste is it?'

  'No, Sasha.'


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